Vitello Tonnato: the history, origins and secrets of one of the most beloved recipes in Piedmontese cuisine

The dish that has taken the world by storm

Few dishes epitomise Piedmont quite like Vitello Tonnato.

Served in traditional trattorias, fine-dining restaurants and on the tables of Piedmontese families on special occasions, it has, over time, become one of the most recognisable symbols of the region’s cuisine.

Its fame has now spread beyond Italy’s borders, but behind this dish lies a story far more fascinating than one might imagine.

A misleading name

When you first hear of it, the combination of veal and tuna may seem unusual.

In fact, the original recipe was very different from the one we know today.

The earliest records date back to the 18th century, when the term ‘tonnato’ did not necessarily refer to the presence of tuna, but rather to a method of preparation inspired by the preserved foods used by sailors. It was only during the 19th century that tuna in oil began to feature regularly in the sauce, becoming the ingredient that makes it so distinctive today.

It is a testament to how cuisine is constantly evolving, whilst maintaining a strong connection to its roots.

Where the sea meets the mountains

One of the most interesting facts concerns the presence of tuna in a region far from the sea.

How is that possible?

For centuries, Piedmont maintained close trade links with Liguria. Anchovies, tinned tuna and other seafood arrived via the ancient salt routes and gradually became part of Piedmontese cuisine.

Anchovies, for example, were regarded as a prized yet affordable ingredient and were used in numerous dishes, from Bagna Cauda to Vitello Tonnato.

This combination of seafood and ingredients from the hinterland is one of the most fascinating aspects of Piedmont’s culinary tradition.

The sauce that made history

Whilst the meat is important, it is the sauce that has made this dish famous.

The traditional Piedmontese version is made by combining tuna, anchovies, capers and egg yolks, which are blended until a velvety cream is obtained.

Every family has its own recipe, and every cook adds their own little personal touches, but the principle remains the same: to create a perfect balance without overpowering the delicate flavour of the veal.

It is precisely this harmony that makes Vitello Tonnato a prime example of gastronomic elegance.

A star of the festive table

For many families in Piedmont, Vitello Tonnato is not simply a starter.

It’s the dish that kicks off Sunday lunches, important occasions and family celebrations.

Often prepared the day before, it reaches its full potential after a few hours’ rest, when the meat and sauce blend together to create an even more balanced flavour.

It is a recipe that speaks of conviviality, tradition and memories.

An interesting fact: did you know that?

In Piedmont, there is a saying that many chefs are familiar with: ‘Vitello Tonnato tastes better the next day.’

It is not just a popular belief.

Leaving the dish to rest overnight allows the sauce to soak into the meat slightly and the flavours to blend together, resulting in an even more harmonious dish.

For this reason, it is often prepared a day in advance, both in home kitchens and in restaurants.

Vitello Tonnato today

Today, there are numerous variations: some use mayonnaise, others make the sauce lighter, whilst others offer modern, deconstructed versions.

But the traditional recipe continues to hold a timeless appeal.

When the ingredients are of high quality and the dish is prepared in the traditional way, Vitello Tonnato remains one of the most elegant dishes in Piedmontese cuisine.

Savour tradition in Monferrato

At the Monferrato Restaurant, Vitello Tonnato is prepared with great attention to the quality of the ingredients and in keeping with the traditional recipe.

Every dish is inspired by a desire to showcase Piedmontese cuisine through authentic flavours, tried-and-tested techniques and carefully selected ingredients.

Because some recipes are not subject to passing fads: they stand the test of time and continue to delight, just as they have done for over two centuries in the dining rooms of Monferrato.